Daily Candy.com  - July 09, 2010

Some combinations (sea salt and caramel, bread and cheese), just make sense. But foie gras and frozen custard?

Those two equally delicious delicacies are sharing menu space at M. Wells, a restored 1954 diner in Long Island City opened (although right now, it’s breakfast and custard only) by Canada-meets-Queens couple Hugue Dufour and Sarah Obraitis.

Sit on a reclaimed church pew and break your fast with homemade biscuits, and sausage and egg sandwiches on griddle-baked English muffins. The freshly fried donuts are perfect for dunking in a $1.50 cuppa locally roasted Oslo coffee.

Canadian fusion dominates lunch and dinner (in about three weeks); think meatballs cooked in a can, loaves of foie gras, and tourtières (smoked meat pies). Ghosts of the diner’s Chinese-takeout-joint past will be waked with dishes like a daily fried rice and hamburgers on steamed buns.

But go now to grab a Timmy O’s frozen custard on your way to P.S. 1 (around the corner) or Montauk (the LIRR’s Hunts Point station is literally outside the door). And to cozy up to the owners so you’ll know when the bento box lunches with boxed wine are available.

M. Wells, 21-17 49th Avenue, at 21st Street, Long Island City (718-425-6917 or mwellsdiner.com). Breakfast served Monday-Friday, 7 a.m.-noon.