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Quebec-style Diner Opens in LIC
New York Times, June 29, 2010

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/30/dining/30queens.html

In a Queens Diner, Cuisine Without Borders
NY Times, June 29, 2010


IT is safe to say that after it opens next week, M. Wells will be the only diner in Queens with both frogs’ legs Provençal and Salisbury steak.

 

Until recently an abandoned 50-seat diner, M. Wells will open next week.

The chef who dreamed up this juxtaposition and others is Hugue Dufour, most recently of Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, internationally known for its quirky reinvention of Québécois cuisine and its lusty celebration of foie gras. He married Sarah Obraitis last year and moved to Long Island City, where they leased an abandoned 50-seat diner between the train tracks and the toll plaza for the Queens-Midtown Tunnel.

 

While the couple call their restaurant a “Quebeco-American Diner,” the menu is all over the map. With the frogs’ legs and Salisbury steak, there will be lobster rolls and foie gras tamales, rabbit and hot dogs, tortilla Española and thick-crust pan pizza.

 

“I thought that being in the U.S. would allow you to use any culture and any style without any limits,” Mr. Dufour said. “Queens is the most beautiful place in New York to do so.”

 

The food seems to share Au Pied de Cochon’s sense of humor and lack of pretension. The fresh spaghetti with heritage pork meatballs in fresh tomato sauce is cooked in a can, reflecting Pied de Cochon’s take on sous vide.

 

One technique came with the place: a professional wok station from when the diner had a Chinese restaurant on one side and a Spanish deli on the other. M. Wells will serve a daily fried rice.

 

“What we do will depend on what we have,” Mr. Dufour said. “We’ll have a scrambled egg for sure. And then we’ll put crunchy things on top like fried onions and fried chicken skin.”

 

He describes the chicken skin as the “bacon” of M. Wells. “It’s just like the Kentucky Fried Chicken but only the skin.”

 

He says he will serve a few Canadian flavors, like tourtiere, a meat pie, and plogue, a buckwheat pancake with flour from New Brunswick. But no poutine. “You can’t get the right cheese curds here,” Mr. Dufour said.

 

The “M” in M. Wells stands for magasin, French for store. Eventually it will sell items like rabbit pelts from Kansas, black truffles from Tennessee. Wells is the middle name of Ms. Obraitis, a partner in the high-end meat seller Heritage Foods U.S.A.

 

M. Wells, 21-17 49th Avenue, (718) 425-6917, will start with breakfast on July 6. Lunch will be added in a few weeks. Later, the owners hope to open 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Just like a diner.



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